A crucial question for many RVers is how to winterize their water systems. Those who are full-timing don't seem to have a real problem here, since, as one writer put it,

Winterizing a full-timers coach is easy. Point the coach in a southerly direction and proceed until you find warm weather.

Another writer said,

We have never winterized our MH in 20 years. Living in it keeps it warm enough. And we have spent every winter in WA or ID, and in the frozen mountains. When at hookups, we have disconnected the water line and dump hose. If staying for an extended time, we will put heat tape on the water line and a heat pad under the black water tank.

For the rest of us, however, this is an important issue, as failure to take the right steps can result in major damage to your rig. Unfortunately, as on most issuers, the members of this group are not in agreement. Some argue that you need only blow out your pipes with an air compressor, others go for adding the "pink stuff" (RV anti-freeze), while a few do both.

THOSE WHO ARGUE FOR SIMPLY BLOWING OUT THE LINES make several points:

0. In relatively mild climates, they don't need the extra protection of the anti-freeze.
1. They don't like the taste of the residue anti-freeze that they get in the spring.
2. They have done it this way for years and have had no problem

This writer is typical:

I have used the compressed air method for about ten years on three different RVs, with no negative consequences. I chose to go over to this method because we have relatively long transition seasons on both sides of summer. Many weekends with mild, sunny days and night time temps well below freezing. So I ended up re-winterizing several times on either side of summer and found dealing with the anti-freeze a nuisance.

However, I am fairly thorough in winterizing and go through each outlet twice and have a very convenient situation in which to do all this. If I had to hurry or to use compressed air at a service station, then I would use anti freeze. By paying minimal attention, anti-freeze is almost fool proof; compressed air is just as effective, but is not as forgiving in the event of overlooking some step in the process.

Another writer talked to a dealer who never used antifreeze, because of the cost; the dealer claimed that using compressed air was enough:

This works fine for them and this is Western New York, where single digit temperatures are not uncommon. All he uses is one of those little 12v compressors about the size of an old hard drive. He said to just close the valve and let the pressure build a little and the water would blow out in spurts as you did this. It might take a little time, but that it would work.

Since many members use only this method, it obviously works. However, it is a riskier approach, since blowing out the lines MAY not get all of the water out. Thus these members ADD ANTI-FREEZE, (with or without blowing out the lines first).

Their argument is best summarized by one writer:

The piping isn't the whole problem. The harder problem is that water-using appliances may have cavities that trap water, and won't drain. I'm even skeptical about getting all the water out of some of these places with compressed air. The water pump itself can trap water in the pump chamber and the screen and filter chambers. Toilets can trap water in internal passages and valves. We once froze and broke our kitchen sink spray wand by forgetting that it couldn't possibly self-drain, with a loop of hose hanging under the sink. Think about an ice maker!

I have found the pink-stuff method pretty quick and very easy. After opening and then closing the three drains (water tank, low point in the plumbing, water heater, I just poured a couple of gallons of pink stuff in the water tank, flip the heater bypass valve, turn on the pump, and run each of the various water outlets until bright pink showed up, then run a little longer, until the traps are bright pink too. Un-winterizing is pretty easy too: hook up a water source and run water through the system until it no longer tastes "pink", turn off the heater bypass, run some water through the heater, and go camping.

Another writer adds his agreement:

Blowing the lines with compressed air just might not do the job to remove ALL the risk of freezing a water line or joint. Anyone who has tried to siphon a gas line knows what happens when the air in the line is below the height of the fluid! The air will always seek the highest point when it has a chance! Which means ..... if you are blowing a line that has a low spot, you just MIGHT not get all water out of the low spot when you are done blowing the lines! If the low spot happens to be a rigid plastic joint, well, you just might be doing frozen line repairs come Spring. I for one do not take any chances, and I ONLY use RV antifreeze ...... and I do NOT blow the lines first.

A third writer emphasizes this point:

I cannot refrain from urging people in cold climates to ignore advice about "blowing out" water. Folks, it can and does work with SOME plumbing arrangements, but it is *not* something I would recommend to a friend. Depending on the exact details of your plumbing, air may NOT get all the water out, and as others have pointed out, it will cause serious, expensive damage if you should be unlucky enough to burst pipes in a hidden corner.

The "pink stuff" is SO cheap (under $3 per gallon!) I cannot imagine anyone who can afford an RV of any kind feeling that is too big an investment!! Once you have the right winterizing aids in place (water heater bypass & pump inlet valve & hose) you will spend far *less* time doing it the sure-fire way than you'd spend fooling around with an air hose!

If you are going to use anti-freeze, should you also blow out the lines first? Many do, but a few argue that this step is not needed; in fact, it "gives you a false sense of security, since there is bound to be some residual water that will seek the lowest point, freeze and burst/weaken a fitting." In fact, the compressed air itself, if powerful enough, could damage your pipes. One important caution, however: RV anti-freeze cannot be diluted the way that engine coolant can, so you need to be sure that as much water is emptied as possible before adding the pink stuff. Unless you are sure all the water has drained, therefore, you probably ought to use at least a low-pressure air compressor to get rid of the water that gets caught in the low points and won't drain.

If you decide to use this method, follow these five steps (after blowing out the lines if you choose to take this step):

0. Get a hot water heater bypass line installed if you do not already have one.
1. Drain the fresh water tank as completely as possible or turn on your water pump and run water through the sink until the tank is empty (some tanks don't have a quick drain).
2. Put about 2-3 gallons of RV antifreeze in the fresh water tank
3. Use the water pump to circulate/purge antifreeze through all fresh hot/cold water lines. Run the pump and flush each hot/cold water line separately (toilet included!) until pink antifreeze runs clear, then keep the tap running in sinks/shower to put antifreeze in the traps.
4. Also remember to purge the city water inlet with antifreeze (hand pump will do this).

But what about the after-taste? Try these tips: (1) Flush thoroughly with fresh water. Fill your fresh water tank twice and let your water pump force it through your pipes. Remember to open your gray water dump valve before you get carried away here. Then hook up to city water and run some more until all the pink color and taste are gone. Be sure not to un-bypass the water heater until you've flushed all the lines. (2) If you still have any residue, fill your fresh water tank about 3/4 full and drive the rig around for a while, letting the water slosh around before draining and refilling.

Which method is for you? If you want to be completely safe, anti- freeze is the only way to go. If you live in a mild climate, however, and use your rig all year long, you will PROBABLY be safe with only blowing out the lines. If you try this method, however, you might want to watch the weather carefully. If a hard freeze is predicted, running your furnace might be a little extra insurance ö just in case. What if you are not sure which method is best? In that case, you will certainly rest easier by blowing out your lines *and* adding anti-freeze.

If you have other questions about winterizing your rig or other RV concerns, be sure to leave a message on the RV list. Someone will be sure to have an answer for you soon.