The main reason most of us moved from tents to RVs was the call of nature. Having to crawl out at 3:00 AM to visit the local facilities was inconvenient, to say the least. Even in the daytime, we never knew how clean we would find the local potty. Thus we sold our $150 tent and purchased a $75,000 motor home!

Now we have to pay for that sucker, so we need to cut costs wherever possible, leading us to the most frequently asked question: Do I have to use the expensive toilet paper sold in the RV stores? Won't the store brands work as well?

As in many other areas, the members of the RV club are united on their answer: The store brand will work just as well -- usually -- provided it is the right brand. Of course, we aren't quite as united on what brand that is!

One or two prefer to stay as safe as possible. As one member wrote, twice I tried to use standard toilet paper instead of spending a small amount more for RV paper. Twice it stopped up the black water drain. If you have never had the privilege of unstopping a full plugged up black water drain. It is not one of life's better moments. I have stayed with the regular stuff ever since.

The majority of our members, however, agree that you do not need the RV brands. The key is finding a brand that will quickly dissolve. One test that many suggest is to place one or two sheets of your regular tissue into a small jar of water and let it sit for a minute. Shake the jar. If the paper disintegrates, it's OK for your holding tank. Using this test, many have found success with Scott, Northern, and Charmin, along with many cheaper brands. To be safe, however, run the test yourself; some claim, for example, that one of the above brands failed, while others said they worked OK. (Ironically, one member claimed that he had tested one of the RV brands and it had *failed* the test!)

The key is probably not the brand, though, but the type. Two-ply tissues seem to be a bit harder to dissolve -- about half as fast, according to some. On the other hand -- you knew this was coming, didn't you? -- some claim it makes no difference. We've been buying whatever looked cheap and soft., a said one member. We *always* buy two-ply - usually a store brand. In 16 months of full-time (as in all day, every day) use, we have not had a single significant problem.

If no one agrees on the brand, therefore, you are probably safe with most of the store brands, especially if you run the disintegration test described above. The amount you use is also important. As one member said, If you use 3 squares at a time, OK; if you use 10 or more squares - plugged tank.

More important than the paper itself is the way you treat your black water tank. Most of us have only a small tank, so we dump every few days. Having *enough* water and dumping correctly is going to be a major factor in whether you experience problems or not. The more water you use in the bowl, the more likely the flush will push your waste all the way into the holding tank and not leave some clinging around the exit from the toilet. You may want to also use a deodorant or dissolving chemical, though this probably has more effect on odor than on cleaning the tank.

In normal usage, a small amount of water is retained in the bowl after flushing is complete. This provides a water seal. If toilet paper becomes caught in the seal, it will not close properly. This will allow odors to escape. The only way to correct the problem is to clean the seal with a Q-tip or similar probe; hard or sharp objects can damage the seal. Use only soap and water or approved RV toilet bowl cleaner. Scouring powder and other household cleaners can damage the seal.

While you are camped, leave the black water tank valve closed, only dumping when you have sufficient liquid (3/4 full or more). This is *CRUCIAL*! Without the liquid, solids will quickly build up and create a problem that can only be solved by pulling your tank -- not a pleasant task. Once you are ready to drain your tanks, be sure to empty the black water tank *first*; only after it is completely empty, use your gray water to completely flush out the sewage line. Some also argue that running a full tank of water afterwards will keep it from stopping up. This might not be a bad idea when you have time, but it is probably overkill to add the extra tank each dump.

Once in a while you may also want to try this method to clean out any hardened residue. (This is borrowed from the RV-FAQ, which is posted each month to a number of RV user groups.)

Here is a tried and true method of cleaning the Black Water Tank, sort of invented by a roadside cafe waitress in the 50's. When that waitress burnt the bottom of the glass coffee pot, no amount of scrubbing would get it clean quickly. The waitress simply put in some ice cubes in the pot, swirled it around, and voila, clean coffee pot! The same method will work to clean the inside of the black water tank.

Start with the tank empty. Fill it with water just below the first sensor's level. Then add 3-4 bags of department store ice cubes through the toilet. Drive the vehicle immediately for 10-15 minutes, ensuring you go up and down hills to swirl the ice around. The movement of the cubes will clean stuck toilet paper and feces from the sensors, and give the tank a great scrub without damaging the seals or costing a lot of money (about $3). Those commercial sensor cleaners cost over $10 and don't work very well. The bleach method does not scrub and that's what you need to clean the sensors. Give it a try.

Oh, yes, if you live in a climate that's hot, the colder the ice, the better. Most department store freezers are just barely cold enough to keep the ice frozen. Place the bags in your home freezer to get them nice and hard. You'll get more scrubbings minutes that way.

If this doesn't work, you might also try a tank wand. Some of these work from the inside of the unit, going down the tank from the toilet. Others run from the outside; you hook the water hose up to it and it sprays water under force all around the holding tank. According to one member, you can get specific units for some rigs; if one is not available for yours, try the generic ones sold in the camping supply stores.

A few folks also say that they add bleach or other cleansing agents once in a while, but be careful: harsh chemicals can damage your flush valve. In this case, the RV chemicals are probably safer and worth the extra bucks.

If you have other questions about your sewer system, be sure to leave a message on the RV list. Someone will be sure to have an answer for you soon.